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Sardinia

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WHY SARDINIA?
  • Relax on the white sand beaches of the Costa Smeralda
  • Enjoy swimming in incredibly clear, turquoise waters
  • Savor the freshest seafood
  • Visit the nuraghi, conical shaped houses unique to Sardinia
  • Walk in the steps of the many conquerors of this island
  • Watch the Costa Smeralda parade of yachts in July and August
  • (pictured right: La Maddalena)

    Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean, is located approximately 100 miles from the Italian mainland and an almost identical distance from the coast of North Africa. Because of this location in the center of the Mediterranean trade routes, it was invaded and colonized by a succession of powers. Greeks, Romans and Phoenicians came early on, and traces of their civilizations can be found in ruins of Carthaginian colonies at Nora, the Phoenician temple at Tharos near Oristano, and in the remains of Roman villages strung along the coast. Vandals, Byzantines and Arabs looted and destroyed the colonies, while in the middle ages the maritime republics of Pisa and Genoa battled for supremacy, followed by the Spanish and the Austrians. Today the towers and ramparts of the Genovese and Spanish, the elegant Romanesque churches of the Pisans as well as impressive examples of Gothic and Baroque architecture remain.

    Sardinia’s first inhabitants were the Nuraghic people, thought to have arrived from the eastern Mediterranean around 2000 BC. Traces of their civilization are visible throughout the island: thousands of nuraghi, mysterious conical shaped houses and fortresses that are unique to Sardinia. Built of huge stones joined without mortar, some are like medieval castles, with a tall central tower and two or three rings of defensive walls. Su Nuraxi, just outside the town of Barumini and dating from 1500 BC, is the oldest as well as the largest complex, most likely a palace or even the capital. Thought to have been covered with earth by Sards and Carthaginians at the time of the Roman conquest, it was not discover-ed until 1949 and remains in an excellent state of preservation. Bronze statuettes and domestic objects left by this civilization can be seen at the museum in Cagliari.

    A mountainous island with hills and narrow highlands, Sardinia has a spectacular jagged coastline, interspersed with pristine beaches of fine sand, rocky inlets and secluded coves ideal for snorkeling. The world famous Costa Smeralda is the major resort area, while the lovely beaches near Alghero, with its Spanish ambience, attract visitors as well. Throughout Sardinia’s history of upheaval, the islanders retreated to the inland mountains, where many of them remain today, raising sheep and growing grapes on terraced mountain terrain. Here Sardinian folk culture is expressed in dance, handicrafts and native dress.

    Sheepherding and fishing have always been central to the economy of Sardinia, so many of the specialties feature lamb, sheep’s cheese, and fish. Bottarga, pressed mullet roe, is sliced paper thin and drizzled with Sardinian olive oil as an antipasto, or tossed onto malloreddus, tiny ridged dumplings, as a first course. Typical breads include the thin and crispy pane carasau and carta da musica, which become pane frattau when combined with eggs and tomatoes. Soups are hearty: zuppa cuatta, made with lamb and Pecorino cheese and baked, is a perfect example. Cagliari is famous for its burrida, fish poached in an aromatic broth with onion, carrot, celery, parsley, and lemon, then served with a flavorful garlic sauce stretched with mild vinegar and thickened with crushed pine nuts or walnuts. Meat is typically roasted, often on aromatic wood; the spit-roasted suckling pig is outstanding, as is trattaglia arrustica, lamb liver grilled on wild olive branches. Desserts include pabassine, a pastry rich with dried fruit and redolent with orange, and sebadas, large round ravioli that are filled with Pecorino and grated lemon or orange zest, then fried and drizzled with warm slightly bitter honey from strawberry plants. Do try a glass of liquore su mirtu, a myrtle liquor, after dinner, and Vermentino di Sardegna, Torbato, Nuragus, Connonau, Monica, or Anghelu Ruju with dinner.
     


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